Magda Gessler - Newsweek
Ewa once had a restaurant in Sasino, near Łeba. I remember her from years ago, so the more willingly I went to visit her again. I came in off-season and driving I wondered whether or not it was open. After reaching the place I saw a completely ordinary cottage house. Inside there was a fireplace, beside it stood two tables. The waiter at the entrance told me that I would not come in, because it was after 8 p.m. and the restaurant although open at this time of year, was only serving guests until 8 p.m.
I got inside thanks to the handsome owner, who told me about this old-new site a bit more. It turned out that the restaurant now belongs to him, or the son of Ewa, and his wife Hania. They both emigrated to London a few years back and due to this fact, they got to love Polish cuisine even more. Infatuated with Ewa's cuisine, they started to develop it and improve, but contrary to all expectations, they did not bring any quirks from abroad. The cuisine remained simple and traditional, which does not mean that anachronistic.
At the beginning, they treated me me with the world's best herring. I know that often when describing dishes that delight me, I say they are the best in the world, but these herrings were really so. I was ravenous, and their delicacy and brilliant taste just moved me. Another delight is the most wonderful, crusty piece of fresh Baltic cod, brilliantly fried. Then on the table appeared pork ribs with wonderful mashed potatoes and beetroot salad. Yes, just like that, delicious, seasoned with marjoram, miraculously soft. At the end, Hania showed off with her phenomenal cheesecake. Only having tasted it I knew what the magic of this place came from. I realized that I forgot I was in a restaurant. I felt not like hosted in restaurant, but at home, I ate trully homemade food, the owners shared their joy with me, I saw their love for what they do and for each other. You have to visit them and try the trout, which is said to be delicious, but I could not eat more.